Of all the color on a face, your eyes are the most dramatic. Choosing shades can be an arduous task for some of us. Do you go natural? Do you match the colors in your outfit? Do you use the usual browns so that it goes with everything? Mineral eye makeup is becoming more user friendly. Gone are the days when you applied powdered pigment to your eyes. Today’s choices are easier to apply and the effects are just as gorgeous as conventional makeup.
Eyes are the most decorated feature on a face when it comes to makeup. Typically, the colors you choose can be separated into themes. A natural theme consists of beige and browns. An 80’s theme would include bright and bold colors which usually match the colors of the clothes you are wearing. No matter what the theme, there are still a few basic rules when applying mineral eye makeup.
You will need-
An angle brush with bristles about 5mm wide, a concealer brush, an eye shadow brush, a 7mm blending brush, a blusher brush, mascara, eye pencil and an extra mascara brush or brow brush
If you have already prepared your face with moisturizers, concealer, foundation, blush and bronzer, you can immediately begin your eye makeup routine.
Start with the lightest colors first. These would usually start just below your brows to highlight height. Use your eye shadow brush to pick up some powder on the bristles, shake off excess powder and sweep below the brows. Do not be alarmed if you draw a streak as this will soften with blending later. Repeat this step on your opposite eye.
Use the same brush to pick up the medium color and shake of the excess powder again. Close the eye you are going to apply eye shadow to and point your brush to the outer corner of the eye socket and lightly glide the brush along the socket area. Now position your brush back to the outer corner of the eye socket and open your eye. Drag the bristles along the inside of the crease, back and forth a few times, stopping halfway up the socket to backtrack again. Repeat again with your other eye.
Now pick up the darker color with your eye shadow brush, shake off excess powder and smooth along the upper lash line of your eyelid with your eye closed. This is done from the outer corner of the eye to the middle of the eye. Repeat this step on your other eye.
Note that if you are using strongly pigmented powder, it is advised to have a tissue at your disposal and once you have shaken off excess powder with each pick up, smudge your bristles into the tissue to alleviate the bristles of further powder.
Grab your angle brush and lightly dust the bristles over the darkest color you will be using and align the ends of the bristles flat with your upper lash line. Pat the bristles along the upper lash line from the inside corner of your eye while holding your brows up with your free hand so as to deposit color at the base of the upper lash line. Pat the bristles along the upper lash line until you reach the outer corner of your eye. Release your brow with your free hand and place your index finger next to the outer corner of your eye with your free hand. Gently stretch your upper lash line while closing the eye and position your angle brush to glide in the opposite direction. Sweep the bristles back across the upper lash line and finish almost to the inner corner of the eye.
If you would like to brighten your eyes, you can do the same to your lower lash line. Position your angle brush along the lash line under your lashes to achieve a smoky look. Start from the outer corners and sweep towards the inner corner of the eye. Do no smudge yet. Repeat these steps on your other eye.
Now you can pick up your blending brush and begin the blending process. Always start at the lightest shades so that your blending brush does not pick up darker shades and deposit the color onto your lighter shades. If you have 2 brushes, use one for each eye. If not, start with the lightest shade under your brows and lightly buff the area. Repeat on the other side until you are happy with the effect. Slowly lower your buffing action to the medium shade and repeat on the other side. Once your whole lids are buffed up, you can move to your lower lashes.
By now, your blending brush has picked up a bit of color from your lids and you can use this bit of color to lightly sweep across your lower lash line starting from the outer corners and moving towards the inner corners of your eyes. Do both sides. The idea on the lower lashes is to remove excess powder from the angle brush application so that you do not have dark powder spots moving down your cheeks and to soften the line made with your angle brush. If needed, you can lift your brows while blending and gently stretch the corners of your eyes outwards for a smoother blend.
Pick up your blusher brush and smudge the bristles into some tissue paper to rid the bristles of excess blusher from previous applications. Bunch the bristles up to form a smaller sized bristle width and buff over whole lids. This will give you the ultimate blend!
If you have a spare mascara brush (which you can usually get from a pharmacy for free if you ask at the cosmetic counter) you can quickly brush up your brows. Pick up your angle brush again and dab the bristles into the shade you would like your brows to bare. Tap the handle and lightly blot your tissue paper to remove excess powder. Begin at the nose end of your brow and sketch into the first half of your brow in thin feather-like streaks. If you are feeling confident, continue sketching and applying lighter and lighter pressure on your angle brush as you approach the outer end of your brow. Repeat on the other brow. You may need a brow brush to smooth the top line of your brows into place or if you have a spare mascara brush, you may use this instead.
Assess your look so far. If you feel that you need slightly harder lines around the eyes, use an eye pencil along the lash lines and blend with your angle brush.
If you are happy with your look, you can apply mascara. Always make sure your mascara brush has an even amount of mascara. There does not need to be a lot of mascara on your brush as you can always apply another coat to your lashes (which gives a more polished look). Position your mascara brush at the base of your lashes and lightly shake your brush like a small vibration, still at the base of your lashes and pull the brush through to the ends of your lashes. This ensures that the bristles reach through your lashes and coat all sides for a voluminous look.
Sometimes we make small errors when applying makeup. A cue tip, tissue paper and concealer go a long way to hide our mishaps.
Candice is a wedding makeup artist and hair stylist specializing in modern and couture weddings. She keeps a keen eye on fashion and only uses mineral makeup and natural hair products on her clients. She is currently building a website as a resource tool for the world to use and be a part of. Keep an eye out for it.